Cosmetics for the Female Face
Medicamina faciei femineae
Headnote
The Medicamina Faciei Femineae (Cosmetics for the Female Face) is Ovid’s shortest and least-read love-poem: a fragment of about a hundred elegiac verses, written around AD 2, that survives only as the opening of what was once a longer didactic poem on women’s beauty-care. It is the purest specimen of Ovid’s mock-instructional manner — the praeceptor who lectures on seduction in the Ars Amatoria here turns the same deadpan technical seriousness on facial cosmetics, treating the compounding of a face-cream with all the gravity Virgil brought to bees and vines in the Georgics. The comedy is in the register: the genuine recipes — measured out in pounds, sixths of an as, and scruples — are delivered as solemn doctrine, and the joke and the argument are one.
The poem falls cleanly in two. The first half is a verse essay in defense of cultus — cultivation, polish, adornment: cultivation tamed the wild earth and sweetened the bitter fruit, gilds the high roofs and dyes the Tyrian wool, so why should women not refine themselves? The rough Sabine matrons of King Tatius’ day spun and tended the hearth, but your mothers bore you tender daughters, who want gold-worked cloth and Eastern pearls — and there is no shame in it, Ovid says, for the men are groomed now too. He warns, in passing, against love-magic and witches’ herbs (the snake split by Marsian chant, the bronze clashed to rescue the eclipsed Moon), and then lands the moral point that braces the whole frivolous enterprise: let character be the first care, for age will plough the fairest face with wrinkles, while goodness lasts and love hangs securely on it.
The second half is the recipe-book proper: a sequence of genuine cosmetic formulae — a brightening paste of hulled barley, vetch, eggs, ground stag’s-horn, narcissus bulbs, gum, and honey; a second of roasted lupines and beans with white-lead, red nitre, and Illyrian iris-root; a blemish-paste of "halcyon" bound with Attic honey; and a complexion-cream of frankincense, nitre, gum, myrrh, fennel, dried rose, and sal ammoniac, worked up with barley-cream — closing on the glimpse of a woman grinding poppies in cold water to redden her cheeks. The text breaks off there; the rest of Ovid’s beauty-manual is lost.
This English is translated from the Latin (the Perseus/PHI text). It renders the surviving hundred verses line for verse, preserving the elegiac couplet so each pentameter still lands its turn, and keeps the straight-faced how-to tone of the recipes intact; the Roman weights and measures (the as, the ounce, the scruple), the divine and geographic names (Ceres, Juno’s peacock, Tyre, Temesa, Illyria, Attica), and the technical ingredients are left to stand in the line, with the glossary, not an inline note, carrying the unpacking.